08/06/10 - Mt. Quincan Retreat

A weekend Bird Watching at “Mt Quincan Retreat” in North Queensland

Just imagine waking up in the treetops amongst dense rainforest on the inner walls of an extinct volcano – can’t imagine that you say? Well believe me it’s real, and it is only an hour from Cairns on the Atherton Tablelands.
It’s called “Mt. Quincan Crater Retreat.” This unique bird watching spot is an incredible place to stay in the complete comfort of luxurious, treetop accommodation that blends in so well with its surroundings that the birds and animals go about their business as if you were part of the furniture.

To be able to get out of your car on the rim of an extinct volcano and walk down a narrow boardwalk into dense, undisturbed ancient tropical rainforest, and then at the end go through the door to your own private, secluded world, is just unbelievable.

On dusk it was magical sitting out on a secluded deck, in the rainforest canopy overlooking the inside of the volcano and hearing a myriad of Eastern Whipbirds and frogs serenading the end of the day. Night was upon us as different calls began to echo from inside the walls of this hidden world.

Bush Hens began calling from the high grass deep in the volcano and the Orange-footed Scrubfowls’ calls seemed to float across the deep crater into the amphitheatre of our treetop abode; through the light mist that now enveloped our seclusion.

Australian Swiftlets and flocks of Topknot Pigeons lined the rim of the volcano to the west as they journeyed across the evening sky in the dim fading light; heading towards their evening roosts somewhere in the distant forests to the north.

A male Brush Turkey suddenly thought he might fly up to the spreading mossy branches of a dead tree less than two metres away to see who dare intrude on his space. Judging by the wear on several branches it was no doubt a common place for him.

Cicadas and Crickets added to the atmosphere as they seemed to join in to serenade us for around 20 minutes then stopped as quickly as they started. Distant calls of Barred Frogs also added to the sounds of this special place.

As the night went on a resident Boobook Owl began calling within the crater which added to the atmosphere of truly wonderful Australian sounds.

Darkness gave way to a couple of glasses of wine, a nice meal, and a spa bath in the treetops with no other human sound anywhere in the distance; then drifting off to a deep and peaceful sleep.

For years I personally have slept in the tree tops when filming, sometimes more than 30 metres above the ground, and felt at peace and part of the natural world. The only difference here was that I could take my partner with me and share the same sense of belonging to the bush, but in far more comfort.

Dawn came with a single note of an Eastern Whipbird in almost total darkness stirring somewhere deep inside the rim of the volcano, and was soon followed by numerous other pairs giving their loud cracks territorially to each other around the inner rainforest walls.

Eastern Yellow Robins were next, followed by a pair of Laughing Kookaburras, then Lewin’s, Macleay’s and Dusky Honeyeaters. Bush Hens were next followed by Spangled Drongos, Yellow Figbirds, Silvereyes and a single Mistletoe bird.

Wompoo, Superb and Rose-crowned Fruit-Doves followed; mingled with Brown Cuckoo Doves calling from some where up the rainforest walls. A lone Shining Bronze-Cuckoo called from somewhere close to our cabin, but was then interrupted with the calls of a family of Pacific Bazas; four in all – two adults and two juveniles from the previous season.

Having finished breakfast, we did the walk around the inside of the crater, deep inside its walls on a recently and well kept, mowed track. Insects must have been there in great numbers as huge Nephila Spiders had their strong webs draped across every opening waiting for some helpless insect to carelessly trap itself in their sticky web and end up as a meal.

Mistletoes grew over many of the exposed Red Ash trees, covered in flowers, and were being busily visited by dozens of butterflies such as Northern Jezebels, Union Jacks, Common and Blue Banded Egg Flies, Pearl Whites, Common and Eastern Brown Crows – just to mention a few.

A lone male Mistletoe bird was gorging itself on the Mistletoe fruits then flying off to deposit the seeds onto another host tree elsewhere. Brown Cuckoo-Doves and White-headed Pigeons were disturbed from Wild Tobacco bushes where they were feeding on their fruits. Varied Trillers and Black-faced Cuckoo-shrikes were seen and heard on numerous occasions along the walk.

A Tawny Grassbird gave itself away in the rushes on the volcano floor and briefly exposed itself in response to my squeak. A Forest Kingfisher was spotted by my partner sitting quietly on an exposed dead stick waiting for some tasty morsel to appear.

In the afternoon we decided to walk up along a trail through a strange, semi-stunted alpine-type rainforest to the summit of Mt Quincan. It was a beautiful walk with every care taken by the owners to leave everything intact with only pink ribbons to guide us through the maze of stunted rainforest. The little form of the White-throated Treecreeper approached my squeak and I managed to get some nice images of the male.

A shadow went across the ground and we looked up to see the local male Wedge-tailed Eagle with food in his claws; it appeared to have a bird of some kind as the feathers were clearly visible. The nest was obviously on the volcano rim somewhere.

Near the top of the crater most trees were covered in long strands of green moss with epiphytes such as Elk Horns and Crow’s Nest ferns cladding their trunks.

Whilst we did not personally see the local Lumholtz’s Tree-Kangaroos, most trees bore the deep scars of their sharp claws; making it quite evident that this volcano had quite a population of this special animal and deserved special protection.

Next morning we said good bye to Simon and Sandra; two new friends who were the caretaker managers in the absence of the owners, Kerry and Barb Kehoe. We vowed to them that we would return. During our stay they both treated us like royalty, making us very welcome with their friendly nature, and they both certainly had a strong interest in the natural world which will make anyone’s stay more enjoyable.

Mt Quincan Retreat holds some fond memories and we both would like to commend the owners Kerry and Barb for the tasteful way they have merged sensible development into a very sensitive area. We congratulate them and we will certainly be introducing John Young Wildlife guests to this piece of paradise.

Mt Quincan is very central on the Atherton Tablelands, and is suitable as a basecamp if you wish to explore the region during the day and still be able to return in the afternoon or night to do some birdwatching. It is absolutely AWESOME.

We certainly recommend this place and to find out more - email Simon and Sandra at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or go to the website www.mtquincan.com.au.

You will be glad you did.

John Young
The Wild Detective.
www.johnyoungwildlife.com